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Stoked Store Questions

Longboard Technical Questions

Stoked Skate Team

International

Stoked Store Questions
Prices - We have received several calls and emails asking how we can sell our boards and components for so much cheaper than some other skate shops. The answer is this: We simply do not believe in charging skaters a ton of money for skate products. We understand what it is like to ride a new board and/or new components. We want you to be able to experience that feeling without having to pay a lot of money. Stoked is committed to prices as low as possible. The products we sell are not factory seconds or flawed in any way (unless otherwise stated in the description of the product).

Making a Stoked Board - Stoked boards are built by skaters for skaters. We have a week long training period to insure our builders are nothing but the best. Every board is built carefully and consistently with nothing but the best components. Add a dash of our love for skateboarding and bam dude, you got yourself a Stoked Skateboard. Though we do all in our power to have your board ready to ride out of the box, be sure to scope it out before riding to insure it is up to your personal specs.

Rockin Ron's - Customers love these bearings, but, we can't seem to get any orders or information from Rockin Ron's. So we will not be carrying these bearings until we can get a good supply of them. Sorry, it's not under our control at this time.

Price Matching - You better believe it! Here at Stoked, we do all we can to get you your gear without killing your wallet. Hit us up at sales@stokedskateboards.com with a link to the competitors' website or store front name (with a phone number) and we will do all we can to help you out. You took the time to order from Stoked, it's the least we could do.

My Shipping Rate - Proceed partially through the checkout process and select the shipping option that applies to your order. For example, "Free Shipping (on orders over $99)" if your order is more than $99. If you think your rate is unusually high or your country is not supported, email us. We will get right on it to have you Stoked. sales@stokedskateboards.com

Getting Free Shipping - In order to receive the free shipping, the free shipping option must be selected from the drop down shipping menu prior to check out. Shipping fees will not be automatically discounted. Please be sure to double check your order before checking out as you will be charged shipping fees if this option is not selected. Orders under $99 are not eligible for free shipping, however, rates are extremely competitive. Lastly, free shipping only applies to orders in the continental United States. Competitive rates are available for Hawaiian, Alaskan, and international shipments.

Cancellation Fees - There are expenses associated with canceling an order. Stoked gladly takes on these fees if you require us to cancel the order the first time. However, if you continue to place the same order and cancel it multiple times for any reason without communicating your needs to us, we will charge a 15% order processing fee for the subsequent cancellations. You can avoid this fee by communicating with us via email before you place the order a second time to ensure that we have what you need and can come to an acceptable arrangement.

Returns - In order to return an item or items, simply send them back to the address below with a note saying what you want us to do.

Stoked Skateboards
19815 Hamilton Ave
Torrance CA 90502

All returns must be done within 30 days of purchase. Return shipping is at the customer's expense. We can return for a refund, exchange for different products, or exchange defected products. If your product is defective, please make a note of what is the issue with the item. Defective items and miss-shipped items are subject to shipping refunds. All sales are final on factory seconds, used products, and limited or special edition items. If the product is lost in transit back to us, it is at the customer's expense. Be sure to include your invoice, full name (as seen as the Bill To), or invoice number. No RMA number is needed.

Longboard Technical Questions
Completes - All completes are shipped to you completed. Though we do all in our power to have your board ready to ride out of the box, be sure to scope it out before riding to insure it is up to your personal specs.

Hellcat Deck/Crail Trucks - Yes they do fit with each other. This is a good setup for downhill. It is not intended for easy carving or cruising. If you want to absolutely blister and drift hills and corners, you will love this setup. If you want to do more than DH, go with a Randal R-2 180mm truck. Pick up a set of R-2 42 degree baseplates for when you want the Randals setup for strictly downhill fun.

Bearing Spacers - We offer bearing spacers for $3 more on all completes and free bearing spacers on certain types of bearings. These bearings include all Black Panthers, FKD, SiN System, Bones Swiss, Bones Super 6, and Biltin. Other bearing choices do not come with bearing spacers unless they are added to the order.

Trackers - Here is Tracker's explanation: The Tracker RT-S model is stable and quick and has the stability of a full contact pivot point. It was designed to be used as a rear "traction" truck, one that provides greater stability and increased rider control. We hand assemble all RT-S model trucks using Tracker's exclusive hourglass bottom cushions, a taller top cushion and a slightly longer kingpin for more fine tuning and adjustments. The RT-S model is available in 85mm, 106mm, 129mm, 139mm and 149mm. The Tracker RT-X model truck is quick and loose, has a high roll center and a straight point pivot for a more "tippy" turn. We designed the RT-X to be used as a front steering truck, one that gets the rider into and out of a turn quickly and predictably. Each RT-X is hand assembled using Tracker's exclusive hourglass bottom cushion, taller top cushion and a slightly longer kingpin for fine tuning and adjustments. The RT-X is available in 106mm, 129mm, and 139mm.

Custom Bushings - Yes, we will include your stock bushings with your order if you order custom bushings. All custom bushings you order come installed on your trucks (regardless if you order just trucks or a complete with custom bushings). Additionally, you will receive the proper washers for both sets of bushings.

Sliding Wheels - The best wheels we've found for sliding are Earthwing Slide A's. These, in combination with Biltin bearings and a good slide deck is the best you could ask for in terms of a slide setup. If you are looking to drift a freeride downhill type wheel, try out Abec 11 Flywheels, Orangatang Durians, and Fireballs. They grip when you need it and can be pushed past the limit of adhesion when loose is fast. Wheels like the Orangatang In Heats and Retro BigZigs will be more grippy than the wheels previously mentioned, but once they are properly "broken in", they will also drift beautifully. All have several durometer options so you can tune to your preferences. Still don't know what to get? Call or email us. (310) 462-9991 begin_of_the_skype_highlighting              (310) 462-9991      end_of_the_skype_highlighting begin_of_the_skype_highlighting              (310) 462-9991      end_of_the_skype_highlighting or info@stokedskateboards.com. Please refer to Loaded Team Rider Adam Colton's instructions for breaking in Orangatang wheels here.

Loaded Flex - This is a very subjective question. Typically we tell people to consult the flex chart for the deck on the Loaded site and then buy one flex up from what it says there. That is the simplest answer. There are other variables in play as well though, like if you are still growing or if you are losing weight, or what kind of feel you would like that are better answered on an individual basis. We love to help you tune the setup just to your liking. So shoot us an email for some one on one tech talk. Email us with your flex questions.

Big Flywheels - Regardless of manufacturer, large wheels (80mm and above) can cause problems with bending axles based on your weight. If you are over 180 pounds, please consider using a Bear Grizzly 1052 10mm axle truck. These trucks are hardcore and ready for the force to be applied. There is a 40º/30º baseplate available for this truck as well as the stock 50º/40º. You should also consult the Stoked tech staff about wheel clearance issues. All boards running these large format wheels need to be a "cut out" type pattern to avoid biting the deck.

Gripping a new deck. - Lots of customers have asked, so here you are!



What you will need:
  • Grip Tape
  • Skateboard Deck
  • Razor Blade
  • Screwdriver or bolt (that you will not worry about when you destroy it)

NOTE: READ ALL STEPS BEFORE GRIPPING BOARD TO GET AN IDEA OF WHAT YOU ARE DOING!

How to:

1. First, set your skateboard on the ground in a flat area. Make sure if you have a new deck you set it on an area that will not scratch the bottom of your deck. Also, it helps to do this on a surface that is not prone to stick to the griptape glue easily (like most plastics, grass, etc).

2. Clean your skateboard completely. Remove any and all dirt. You'll need the deck top to be as clean as possible, so that your new griptape makes a complete and sealed bond.

3. Unpeel the entire griptape sheet. Make sure that the adhesive doesn't accidentally stick to anything else. This stuff is pretty intense. It will generally stick to whatever it touches.

4. Line up your grip sheet to the deck. Start slowly from one end of board and move your way across, pushing down starting at the tip and down to the tail. Do this slowly to prevent and/or remove any air bubbles (some brands have small holes in their griptape which makes this step easy.)

5. Carefully use the knife to make incisions into the grip tape to remove any extra air bubbles, as needed. Don't jump to this too quickly though. Do all you can to eliminate those pesky bubbles without the use of a sharp object.

6. Use the knife to cut slits in the overhanging griptape to make the grip round the curves and concaves of the deck easier.

7. Grab your screw driver (or Biltin Bar from Stoked) and scrape it around the sides of the board until the grip tape develops a white edge. This is a way of sealing the edges of your griptape and removing the grit for when you cut. It also acts as a cutting guide. Scrap at about a 45 degree angle with respect to the deck. Note, however, that the angle can change with different deck rail shapes. 8. Get the razor blade and cut from the bottom (sticky side of griptape) all along the outer edge of your skateboard by following the scrap outline you made. Remove extra (usually in multiple pieces) and skate!

GRIP-TIPS:
  • Take your time! This will make all the difference.
  • If you have questions, call Stoked Skateboards BEFORE you do anything. (310) 462-9991


Speed Wobbles - What an excellent question. Speed wobbles are those horribly scary wobbles you get when riding a board fast down a hill. They are caused by your brain trying to balance your board at high speeds, but over correcting back and forth and creating a wobble effect. These can be reduced through several methods. The most common method is simply tightening your trucks. Though this will provide slightly more stability, however, those bothersome wobbles are known to return when pushing your limits once again. Tightening your trucks also limits the performance of your trucks (they were designed to turn, duh!). Another common method (and often a misconception) is through different gear. You have may have heard of people getting downhill baseplates to reduce speed wobbles. Basically what downhill baseplates (DH plates are generally considered anything below 45 degrees) do is increase your lean, but lessen your turn. This will lead to a board that feels as if you are turning very little relative to your amount of lean, thus helping to eliminate the speed wobbles. The downside to downhill plates is the same as the plus side, you can't turn. Hairpins get more difficult to grip with these low angle plates. Another way to get rid of the wobbles is to use a dropped or dropped through deck, such as a Landyachtz Evo or Rayne Hellcat. This lowers your center of gravity and creates a more stable board. Having a dropped deck, however, also affects your turning ablitity (this gets even more complicated, so we will leave this to another FAQ). The last and best way to get rid of speed wobbles is to just not get them in the first place by learning to handle them. How do you do this? With practice my friends. Learning to roll with the wobbles and relax your ankles and legs at 20, 30, 40mph+ does not come easily. Work your way up to it by slowly progressing to bigger and faster hills. Moral of the story: it is all about a balance of gear and practice. You can do it, we have faith in you. Always skate within your ability to stop safely and always wear proper protective gear.

Tightening Bearings - From a concerned customer - "I noticed the that when I loosen the nut on the axle so the wheels would spin freely there was the slightest wobble between the bearing and the axle. When I tighten them down so they don't spin as freely the wobble is gone. With them being that tight will I have a problem with the inner races of the bearings rubbing? I have the spacers that come with the bears on there. I am not so worried about loosing any speed with the wheels being tighter as I am about ruining the bearings."

Some play can be normal, but I would recommend keeping the nuts just tight enough so there isn't any play as long as you have the bearing spacers and speed rings in place. Your wheels might seem to slow down when you just spin them with your hand, but keep in mind that this is not how they will be spinning when you are riding the board. You also have to account for the load put on the bearing by the rider. When this is taken into account, that freely spinning bearing is an inaccurate display of how the bearing actually performs.

Rule of thumb is this: if the wheels stop abruptly, then you have them too tight. They should spin to a smooth, fluid stop. Time for the bearing to spin is not as important.

Care of your new longboard - The best way to keep your board performing at its best is to simply take care of it. Don't leave it outside overnight or in the rain, throw it around unnecessarily, and things of this nature. It takes a lot to break or ruin a longboard deck. There are not many specific products out there to protect it, though we have heard of people using Shoe Goo (which we sell) on the nose and tail for bumpers.

Dervish Cutouts - The new cutouts allow the deck to flex slightly with your turns (torsional stress for your engineering students), eliminating a specific problem with cracking and delamination that occurred on SOME not ALL of the older Dervishes. All of our boards are the new cutout pattern.

Hardware popping heads? - This typically happens because the hardware is too tight. When tightening your hardware, get it down to the deck then give it about a 1/2 or 3/4 turn to snug it in. The hadware should not bury itself into the deck, this is a sign of over-tightening. This problem will also show up in drop through configurations due to metal on metal contact between the bolt head and the baseplate. One of the best ways to mitigate this stress point is to use a washer to spread the load. Slide a washer onto the bolt before you slide it through the baseplate on this type of configuration.

Wheelbite - This can happen during initial tuning. Here is my procedure for ridding my setup of the horrors of wheelbite. 1. While holding a counter top in the kitchen (get clearance from mom/dad, spouse, etc), board on the floor roughly 1 foot away from the cabinet.
2. While standing on the board in a somewhat forward position, lean as far as you can while rolling back and forth to see if you get wheelbite.
3. Adjust the tension on the front truck to limit the wheelbite or swap to a slightly harder set of bushings if you find more than 5 or 6 thread are showing on the kingpin above the nut once tightened. (Don't bulge the bushings way out of shape, a little pudge is ok.)

Another thing you can do is increase the wedge in the front. But I would save that for later when you have more experience with the setup.
Wheelbite on LDP setups is ABSOLUTELY dependent on weight and rider, which is why it has to have a final tuning when you get on the board.

Stoked Skate Team
Stoked Skate Team - Shoot us an email at team@stokedskateboards.com and we can answer all of your questions, send you out an application, and get you on board.
STR - An acronym for Stoked Team Recommended. This means that a Stoked Rider, or multiple Stoked Riders, have used the particular product extensively and found it to be especially well suited for the setup.

Tiers - The Stoked Skate Team is made to allow anyone to join in its unique three tier system. Because of this, just apply to where you see yourself fit. If you don't make the grade on your first shot, no worries! You will move up with progress and determination. Don't be discouraged! Think of it as an opportunity to show your true ability. The important thing is to get out skating and have fun.

International
Free Shipping - Please check out our About Us section for details on shipping to these locations. "About Us"

International Shipping Costs - International shipping is all done by weight. Simply add the products you want to order to your cart and proceed partially through the checkout process and select the shipping option that you wish to apply to your order. Please note that unfortunately free shipping does not apply to international shipments. More info at "About Us".

International Shipping Rates - International orders can be calculated by adding the items you want to your cart then selecting a shipping option in the "Your Cart" page. If your country does not work, please email sales@stokedskateboards.com and we will work with you on the rate. More info at "About Us".

PayPal for International Orders - We will NOT ship international orders if NOT paid through Paypal. If the BILL TO information is from a country other than the United States, the buyer MUST use Paypal. We guarantee your order will be delayed if you do not follow this policy. Please contact sales@stokedskateboards.com if you have any questions.

Customs - Stoked Skateboards is not responsible for any customs or tax fees you may, and probably will, receive when your items are delivered to your location. These are entirely the buyer's responsibility and we do not include them with our price and will not ever pay for them. Please understand your possible customs and tax fees before purchasing. If you have any questions, please email sales@stokedskateboards.com. Thank you for your understanding.

Canada - Online ordering for Canada is available! We accept Paypal only. If order is not received through Paypal, we will cancel the order and contact you for the Paypal payment. Please contact us if you have any trouble placing an international order or would like additional information.

More International Info - If you are unable to place your international order, please email sales@stokedskateboards.com to resolve the issue.